Talking Talibe, St Louis, Senegal, September 2010

Volunteer with Talibe

It's hot.  In fact hot doesn't quite cover it- I haven't seen temperatures this high since my arrival in Senegal over a month ago, so much for the 'cool' season.  I have chosen this of all mornings to visit a group of volunteers providing care and basic medical aid to a group of children known as the Talibe.  I'm sure the religious connotations of this name has not escaped your notice, and you would be correct in your assumption.  The Talibe are from impoverished families who can no longer afford to feed or clothe them (let alone educate them) so bring them to be looked after by a quasi-religious leader known as a Marabout.  In the group homes where they live, known as Dara's, they will be taught the Koran before either returning to their home villages as Marabouts themselves or a more likely scenario, try and muddle through in a country where unemployment is rife (48%, CIA World Factbook).  SO what's the issue I'm sure you're beginning to wonder?  My answer would be there are so many abuses going on at every stage in the chain I'm struggling to know where to begin.  In the words of one volunteer "when do the Talibe ever catch a break? Never!".


Let us first start with the Dara's, they are situated in the worst part of town; weaving through the narrow street you are constantly skirting tennis court sized mounds of refuse and encounter the sleeping mats of the homeless scattered in the most unlikely of places.  The buildings of the Sara's themselves vary; some are large, roomy and relatively clean with grubby but nonetheless smiling boys sat in neat rows attentively listening to their lessons, however others are given nicknames which point to altogether different conditions, such as 'Dara de Mouche' (Dara of flies).


The Marabouts themselves are well respected within communities, and as far as the government are concerned provide a necessary service steeped in moral duty.  To travellers such as myself though, they are nothing more than cult leaders who force the children to beg for money and food, perform hard physical labour and endure countless acts of brutality.  The weapon of choice in these cases being boiling water, often poured down the left side.


This is why the volunteers are here- they visit the Dara's everyday, disinfecting scabs, bandaging wounds and washing the ever filthy boys.  There are a dedicated core of Senegalese volunteers working alongside, and relationships are tactfully cultivated between them and the Marabouts, ensuring access to the Talibe.


So what can be done when this institution is so deeply rooted in Senegalese culture and hiding behind the seemingly inpenetrative curtain of religion.  In reality very little.  Most Senegalese see the Marabout as a solution to the ever present problem of unwanted children in a poverty stricken nation.  People will continue to fund these practices, as giving to charity is one of the five pillars of Islam, and Talibe's are useful cheap labour especially as house cleaners.


There are homeless children the world over, and it can be argues that these children are lucky to have some sort of support system, which, when it works is good but there are undeniable shadows lurking in the background.  The work of the volunteers is crucial, but prevention is always better than cure and until more is done to lift families out of poverty the plight of the Talibe will continue.